Boann Single Pot Still

Boann released in 2024, their first in-house single pot still expression across three core bottlings - Marsala, PX and Madeira. I later got to dive into these in a bit more detail at a tasting but these initial thoughts were jotted down in Bowes’ at the time of their release.

Marsala

This is a lively fella. Every Boann I’ve had has leapt out of the glass and not always in an entirely positive sense. Youth! Quite shocked at it being only 47% as its quite immediately sharp on the tongue. Catches on the throat unfortunately - a sharp contrast to the likes of Killowen whose often equally young spirit rolls around the mouth without an angle in sight.

A little alcoholic on the nose, certainly giving more poitín than another older number would. A delightful sweet snap to it, candied fruit maybe, lemon biscuit. Not overly grainy cereal notes. The mouth is not without its poitín either, popping and crackling. Long on the tongue, a light but satisfying coating, some liquorish and stouty notes on the long end. Cream soda there as well.

It’s a fun number, and I’d suggest a fantastic companion to the right food or pint of stout. Perhaps a punctuation in a lineup of smoother spirits?

PX

Oh my days does this smooth out the edges of the Marsala. You’re still getting the sparkle of the spirit but with a nice long landing strip of dusty, vinous wood. Very very nice. Definitely less biscuit than the Marsala. Musty, dusty, quite delicious. I believe Gary said this was something over 4 years as opposed to Marsala’s 3, which may have just made the difference. Maybe a little rounder, a little smoother, but you also risk losing the sparkle and edge that makes the Marsala so enjoyable. They’re both shockingly drinkable for such age.

Age

Things radically shifted at some point in the last ten years. Smaller, independant shops are producing amazing spirit at age statements previously unacceptable. The Irish whiskey market has obviously been going mental for the past few years, and we reap the rewards of that in exciting, regular releases for more distillies and bonders than we can keep up with. With all this new spirit whirling around I just can’t help but be excited for the future. But I’m also unsure what direction I’d bet it going in. Redbreast 12 is unlikely to deviate a huge amount in the next 15 years. But what about something from the likes of Boann? How are the first years of their spirit going to fare? What direction will their flavour profile go? As it is, it’s not yet possible to taste a 12yo Boann, an 15yo Killowen, a 21 Baoilleach. It’s exciting now, but surely the default now can’t just become 3yo spirit. Or at least, a 3 year old at €70 a bottle. If living in Ireland has taught me anything, it’s not to be optimistic about the direction of affordability across the board.